Finding Foodie Heaven

Now You're Cooking on Front Street in Bath

If you seek good food, you’ll find it Down East in the vicinity of Bath. In fact, when “foodies” arrive, they often ask, “Is this heaven?" And the locals answer, “No, it’s Maine!” In May, before summer even began, when I was still teaching five classes a day in Chicago, I walked into a novelty store in Hinsdale, Illinois, and purchased a cookbook called Real Maine Food simply because it had “Maine” in its title and a picture of two lobster rolls on its front cover. After spending only two summers on the mid-coast of Maine, I knew that the authors, Ben Conniff and Luke Holden, would have valuable recipes to share. With the help of pure Maine flavor, Luke, who fished in Casco Bay as a teen and is the son of a Maine lobsterman, and his co-author and friend, Ben, opened Luke’s Lobster in their adopted home, New York, and the rest is culinary history.  Today, these two phenomenal chefs and their partners operate seafood restaurants in fifteen locations in New York, Philadelphia, D.C., Bethesda and Chicago. 

A wine tasting at Now You're Cooking

One month later, when I spied Real Maine Food on display at Now You’re Cooking on Front Street, I had to smile because I knew I had truly arrived home to my little slice of heaven, Bath! I admit connecting Hinsdale to Bath with a cookbook may seem like a long stretch, but places, like people, can be connected in funny ways. For example, Real Maine Food includes a recipe for “Finnan Haddie Gratin” on page 79 with a description of Maine’s haddock fishery on the preceding page that includes a brief history of Stonington Seafood, which was founded by Richard Penfold, a Scotsman, who decided to settle on Deer Isle in Maine. Michael Fear, the owner of Now You’re Cooking, is also from Great Britain, and his experience with food on both sides of the Atlantic allows him to recognize the rich flavors that Maine ingredients offer every cook and every person who sits down at a table to enjoy a good meal.

Now You’re Cooking, which recently celebrated its fifteenth anniversary, offers monthly cooking classes and wine tasting events that pair wine and food in the best possible way. Nestled in the southeast corner of the store is a fully equipped kitchen, and at most events you will find Mike Fear, wearing his signature bow tie, ready to engage everyone in lively banter at his kitchen’s cooking island. This summer I feel as though Joe and I have earned our frequent flyer card at Now You’re Cooking because we have attended several wine tastings and have stocked up on kitchen supplies that make entertaining so much easier. I have to thank Karen, one of the nicest people in retail that I have ever met, who recommended a large, glass jar that serves as a “bubbler” for ice tea or sangría. In my case it would be for sangría because I'm a Spanish teacher and thought a Sangría Monday party would be fitting. I also thought it would be a good idea to invite Karen, and she came, and the party turned out to be one of the best that I have ever hosted. Our deck was overflowing that evening with “tortillas españolas,” French cheese puffs, and stories about running, which were random but extremely entertaining! Sangría parties are not typical in Bath, but informal gatherings where friends share their stories are common events. ¡Olé! Who knew shopping for kitchen gadgets could lead to so much fun?

Henry and Marty in Brunswick is owned by a Bath resident

The scent of deep fried haddock and buttered lobster rolls transports us all to the coast of Maine and summertime. With all the sunny days Mainers have enjoyed this July, Joe and I have found more than a few local restaurants we adore and highly recommend. On a scale of one to ten, they are all a ten, and I couldn’t possibly list them in any particular order, so randomly let me begin with Henry and Marty, a little place we found in Brunswick, which is owned by one of Bath’s most well known chefs, Aaron. I’m sorry to say I don’t know Aaron’s last name, but I would recognize him anywhere because he always wears his long, white hair in a braid, and he has a smile that reminds me of Santa Claus on Christmas Day! In fact, I recently spotted Aaron at Bath’s Farmers’ Market and had to tell him one more time how much Joe and I enjoyed the fabulous food and smooth drinks at his restaurant a few weeks ago. As fate and Bath would have it, we actually tasted one of Aaron’s signature dishes, brisket and mashed potatoes, at Bath’s New Year’s Eve party in the Freight Shed, which was a benefit for the reconstruction of the Virginia, Maine’s First Ship, and we had been planning to dine at his restaurant for months. After finishing our dinners and raving about the salmon and the perfect manhattans, we told our server about how we discovered Henry and Marty, and she told us that Aaron had been catering the New Year’s Eve benefit since its inception, and the first year the staff arrived before the heaters and set up the buffet in freezing cold temperatures. Nowadays, she can laugh about that big chill, and she enjoyed the memory so much that shortly before closing she brought Aaron out to meet us, and he told us about his love for the Virginia project and his wish to be the ship’s cook when it finally sets sail. He also told us that he rarely gets to pick up a hammer to help the volunteers, but he likes to bring scones to Virginia’s shipyard on Saturday mornings. “Yes, Virginia, there really is a Santa Claus!”

The Starlight Cafe on Lambard Street in Bath

On a good ship, what comes after dinner? Why breakfast of course – ideally at the Starlight Cafe, which is just around the corner from the Virginia’s shipyard on Lambard Street. Joe and I tell ourselves if we keep running over the Sagadahoc Bridge we can afford to eat Angie’s apple cinnamon muffins and black raspberry scones. We will also be better prepared for a game of verbal volleyball with Angie’s husband and co-owner, Justin, who is not only a master at grilling; he is a master at throwing sarcasm straight at you from behind the cash register. Only at the Starlight Cafe do I smile, and sometimes blush, as I pay my bill! Justin and his crew, including Donna, are sunny-side up people who manage to make their customers feel good as they offer them bacon, eggs, pancakes and hot coffee! Beyond breakfast, lunch is also "wicked good" at this quirky cafe that I have come to love. All “foodies’ who come to Bath should try their haddock chowder, tomato basil and barley soups. Last winter, on a cold December day, my friend, Lorena Coffin, stopped by our house for a quick lunch. She brought with her two containers of soup from Starlight Cafe, tomato and chowder. No one was disappointed! I cannot tell you why I have turned my thoughts back to December once again. Perhaps the hit song in the musical Mame explains my sentimental feeling best: “We need a little Christmas, right this very minute,” or maybe I just feel merry whenever I’m in Maine!

The Giant Staircase on Bailey Island

At one of our neighborhood gatherings, I had the good fortune to meet Judi, a lovely lady who knows a lot about Bath and Maine's mid-coast region. She also happens to dog-sit for people who need to separate from their furry friends for a day. Since Joe and I are the proud owners of Penny, a dachshund-sheltie mix, we considered ourselves twice blessed when Judi was available to watch Penny for an afternoon and recommended we tour nearby Harpswell and try Holbrooks’ Lobster Wharf and Grille at Cundy’s Harbor for a late lunch. After driving over the Cribstone Bridge to Bailey Island and walking up the Giant Staircase to view Casco Bay from an amazing viewpoint, Joe and I circled back to the Great Island and took Cundy’s Harbor Road out to Holbrook’s. By the time we reached the snack bar at Cundy’s Harbor, our eyes were filled with all the natural beauty we had seen during our drive along the coast, but our stomachs were definitely running on empty.

Holbrooks' at Cundy's Harbor, Harpswell

 First, we saw the menu, and then we saw the view from Holbrooks’ Wharf. Wow on both counts! We quickly ordered a steamed lobster with corn on the cob, but the lobster quesadillas and fish tacos looked tempting, too. While Danny Gilmore, who runs the snack bar at Holbrook’s and happens to be the son of the retiring owner of Gilmore’s in Bath, prepared our fresh lobster, we walked out on the deck to scout out a table. Because of the early hour, there were only a few tables occupied and within minutes a table in the corner overlooking the harbor became available.

The view from Holbrooks' Wharf

Needless to say, we ate our dinner slowly! I guess our eyes were not as full as we thought. Figuratively, there’s always room for one more view of the water; literally, our salt-water appetite called for strawberry-rhubarb crisp with vanilla ice cream!

Sebasco Wharf in Phippsburg

Perhaps one of our most memorable dining-out experiences occurred unexpectedly on the sixth of July, the Monday evening after all of our adult-children had left. Feeling the emptiness of our feathered nest, Joe and I decided to spend a few hours at Popham Beach and then go to Anna’s Water’s Edge Restaurant for a late dinner.  The Water’s Edge is located at 75 Black’s Landing Road at Sebasco Wharf in Phippsburg, and it’s a favorite eating spot for residents and visitors alike. Truth be told, we had to program our GPS to find this out of the way diamond in the rough, but it was well worth a few wrong turns. Anna’s restaurant opened in 1979 as a take-out window with fair weather seating at picnic tables. When satisfied customers began to praise Anna’s delicious lobster and other seafood, which all came from local fishermen, she was able to add full service dining in what was once the clam processing plant for the Sebasco Estates Foods and Down Easter Foods in the 1940’s, 50’s and 60’s.

Anna's Water's Edge at Sebasco Wharf

 The owners of this rustic restaurant have worked hard to spotlight the rich history of their location, just east of historic Malaga Island, and their dining space, which sits on top of the original floors of the clam processing plant. From floor to ceiling, this unique eatery is decorated with genuine nautical artifacts and feels like a scrapbook of fishing history. 

I believe the authentic ambiance of Anna’s Water’s Edge is simply enchanting. If you want a table inside, I recommend you call for a reservation! Outside, you’ll find stacks of lobster traps and lots of fascinating new and old fishing equipment, and in the shed you can spy an unusual collection of artwork. Dare I say, it’s a romantic spot on a summer’s evening. Joe and I enjoyed deep fried haddock for two while looking at a stunning American flag flying over a sunlit cove filled with fishing boats. And to make our dining experience in Maine even more memorable, we saw an unforgettable sunset as we left the restaurant. How’s that for a storybook ending!

Sunset from the dock at the Water's Edge, Phippsburg

A wise writer once said, "Never pour out all of your words in one sitting." I should stop here. In December, I’ll write about Blue and Five Island Lobster Company and The Osprey, all restaurants on the island of Georgetown. If I ask, perhaps Lauren Crosby, an up and coming Georgetown vocalist and songwriter, will write a new song that includes the lyrics “We need a little Fourth of July right this very minute!”

P.S. Last Saturday night, Joe and I returned to Solo Bistro in Bath to have dinner with a “young” college friend, Mark, and his better-half, Deb, who happen to live in Phippsburg. It was the perfect place to sit back, relax and catch up on life. The salmon, scallops, steak and pork tenderloin were all great choices and helped us to feel blissful on a beautiful summer’s night. It was Deb’s first time dining at Solo Bistro and, proving once again that there is always something new to discover, was impressed by their round-bottom cocktail glasses that rock on the table! May our glasses always be full and rocking!